by Jon Partridge
For many chefs and restaurant owners the world over, the title “Best Restaurant in the World” is something they all aspire to, the most prestigious recognition of their talent and creativity. Chef/owner René Redzepi won this prestigious award in 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2014 for his Copenhagen-based restaurant Noma. But what of 2013? My Perfect Storm looks to chronicle what went wrong that year as well as showcase how they reached the pinnacle of the restaurant world.
Noma is a combination of the two Danish words “nordisk” (Nordic) and “mad” (food). There, the vision of head chef Redzepi channels Nordic traditions. Instilled into their approach is imbuing dishes with a sense of “time and place,” as well as using only local ingredients, reflecting what is available that season. Perhaps most well known is their embrace of foraging, using local farmers, fishermen, and ramblers to source most of their ingredients. With intricately composed dishes that use techniques at the forefront of molecular gastronomy, since its launch Noma has captured the imagination of diners and food critics alike. Director/writer Pierre Deschamps strives to gain insight into this restaurant but more pertinently into its driving force René Redzepi, but rather than deep insights his film offers a superficial glance at the inner workings of his mind and kitchen.
It’s unquestionable that René Redzepi set a new standard within his field, his “time and place” approach fused to Nordic tradition in a way boxing him into being more creative. The film meshes footage of the kitchen at Noma, showing Redzepi and his team conceiving and executing the dishes, along with interviews with friends and family alongside contributions from other renowned chefs. It showcases his creativity, although comparisons to Mozart seem a little generous. What is also conveyed is his inspirational quality, coaxing innovation from his staff as well as redoubled effort from his foragers in the search for ingredients. People are held to a high standard; perfection is the aim with little time for frivolity. While these facets of Redzepi are made clear, others are not. Though mention is made of his being the son of immigrants and subjected to racism, and this possibly being a driving factor in his success, it isn’t really explored.
The perfect storm of the title refers to the ill fated 2013, a year when a confluence of events hit Noma and its staff hard. First, the restaurant was denied their third Michelin star, the top level possible which is only held by the rare few top class restaurants in the world. Secondly, over 60 diners fell ill with norovirus after a service, and finally, they were denied top spot in the “Best Restaurant” rankings, falling to second place. Where this could be a mine of information, to delve into how someone of his stature deals with adversity or more about what drives him, instead it is glossed over, with little discussion and a “sped-up” sequence showing the refurbishment of the kitchen as they decide to have a fresh start.
This is the biggest misstep here, lending to the feel that this is more of a glorification of a man rather than an attempt to delve into his mind. The fact that Redzepi himself narrates the film removes subjectivity and only adds to the air of presumption. His protestations about believing there isn’t a best restaurant and the existence of the awards rings increasingly hollow as his stress levels increase and his joy in regaining the title is palpable. It is harder to invest in this character than the far more humble figure depicted in that other notable food documentary, Jiro Dreams of Sushi. You can admire him to no end for perfecting his craft, but you yearn for more insight, to see the real human side of the story which instead is shunted to the background.
Where the film does excel is in its composition, as refined at times as the dishes Noma serves up. These meals are painstakingly showcased as they are conceived, constructed, and ultimately served. Close ups, over the shoulder angles, slow-motion, and other tricks are employed to immerse you in the kitchen. Outdoor sequences showing the various foresters, farmers, fishermen and foragers roaming the Scandanavian landscape also add to the visual impact. Despite this level of craft, the problem remains that the film never truly connects with its subject, meaning it doesn’t with its audience either.
THE PACKAGENoma: The Perfect Storm is an often beautiful film, verging on the pornographic with lingering shots of sumptuous dishes. The transfer is a solid; some shots look a little washed out, but others are vibrant and textured.
Special features include a trailer, a Noma cuisine gallery, and a number of deleted scenes. Most interesting is a Tasting the Menu feature, where Redzepi and his team taste and dissect new dishes. It is similar to one of the scenes in the film, but each segment is longer. They offer a lot more insight but are very dry and technical.
THE BOTTOM LINENoma: A Perfect Storm is as flawed as its subject, well crafted and beautiful to look at but offering little depth. Chef René Redzepi is obviously an interesting character, but Deschamps fails to get under his skin or focus on aspects that could reveal better insight into his past and his process. It feels like a glossy promotional piece rather than a incisive piece of documentary making, one that showcases the precision rather then the joy of cooking.
Noma: My Perfect Storm is available on Blu-ray, DVD and Digital Rental/Download March 22, 2016.